Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi:
Japan’s Oldest Department Store for Luxury and Tradition
March 30, 2025
Mitsukoshi is a popular department store with two locations: Ginza and Nihonbashi. While both have great offerings, if you only have time to check out one, I would recommend the Nihonbashi location as it is the main store.
Situated in the adjacent district, Nihonbashi has the same high-class ambiance as Ginza, but with a more relaxed, less crowded atmosphere. It's an often overlooked tourist destination that boasts stunning architecture, diverse shopping, and many dining options.
Upon entering the main floor of Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi, you'll be greeted by the celestial maiden statue, also known as "magokoro," meaning sincerity. This statue embodies Mitsukoshi's philosophy of genuine service to its customers, and its grand scale lends an almost spiritual aura to the central hall.
Just behind the statue, on the second floor, is a pipe organ, where weekly concerts are held from Friday to Sunday. For a fleeting moment, you might forget you're in the heart of bustling Tokyo.
*Before you begin your shopping, be sure to get the Isetan Mitsukoshi group guest card from the international customer service counter on the 7th floor. This card gives you a 5% discount on purchases and access to tax-free services!
Sazae Shokuhin Ohagi
For those who don’t know what it is, I like to describe ohagi as an inside-out mochi. The sticky rice part on the inside, and the anko (sweet bean paste) on the outside.
I have tried a variety of different ohagi, and my favorite so far has been from Sazae Shokuhin which has a stall in Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi’s department floor. They are a Hokkaido company founded postwar in 1957 as a diner, and now their specialities are ohagi and onigiri (not sold at the Nihonbashi location).
The traditional options are smooth anko (koshi-an) or smashed bean anko (tsubu-an), but they also offer black sesame and kinako, or soybean flour. What makes their ohagi so delicious is the remarkable softness of their anko and rice, achieved without sacrificing form, and the subtle, masterful use of salt.
Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi is one of just five locations in Tokyo where you can find Sazae Shokuhin Ohagi!
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